Smell & Tell: Olfactory Writing Workshops

The neon sign at Jimmy John's Gourmet Sandwiches in Ann Arbor, Michigan invites quizzical stares and laughter, but it gets to the point. Nothing seduces appetite like the aroma of food. It doesn't matter if you aren't hungry. The monkey mind will hone in on the smell of food until it finds the source. That is why appetite is one of the Seven Deadly Sins.

Though she realized her fragrant calling in Berkeley, California, perfumer Mandy Aftel attended the University of Michigan and has roots in Ann Arbor. The city has the flavor of Europe, the intellectual horsepower of an Ivy League community and an honest Midwestern spirit that is reflected in hyperactive volunteering and a boundless local food movement as intense as California's (the state of Michigan is the second most agriculturally diverse state in the country). A pattern was forming in my mind as I connected the dots. The idea of olfactory writing workshops began to gestate. It was obvious that Ann Arbor was hip to smell.

Having read the olfactory signs I decided to conduct two "Smell and Tell Olfactory Workshops". One was designed for students at 826Michigan. The other was created for adults who frequent events at the Ann Arbor District Library. Selling the concept of smell is not an easy task, but when you are in a curious college community the barriers are nearly non-existent because those who choose to live here are, for the most part, on a lifelong learning path. When librarian Erin Helmrich* related anosmia stories in our first conversation I knew Ann Arbor wasn't your average college town. Loss of the sense of smell is an invisible disability that is rarely acknowledged.

Both "Smell and Tell" workshops involved smelling a variety of raw materials and writing about the sensations that the aromas evoked. Attendees utilized "smell mapping" as a way to access words that described their experience (a technique I developed to help people translate feelings and memories evoked by the sense of smell into words and phrases). What transpired was unique for each individual as the sense of smell is autobiographical and therefore not subject to judgement regarding what is right or wrong.

Angeline smelled orange, lemon, vanilla, cinnamon, peppermint, and lavender on perfume blotters before selecting an aroma for the writing exercise at the 826Michigan Smell and Tell. What she had to say about lemon is a lesson in olfactory objectivity, something adults have a hard embracing as the years shape likes, dislikes and memories associated with personal preferences. Angeline's favorite smells are lavender, candy and flowers. Her least favorite smells are lemons, paint and wet dog. Interestingly enough, Angeline chose to write about her least favorite fragrance which makes this ten-year-old girl a terrific fragrance evaluator!

The Smell and Tell at the Ann Arbor District Library drew an interesting crowd that included University of Michigan medical researchers, students, artisans, food lovers and some of Glass Petal Smoke's followers on Twitter. From the dais I could see that Sharon was entranced by the raw materials smelled in class, especially Tahitian Vanilla and Rice Paddy Herb (the later was especially true for every member of the workshop as it is a dynamic, multifaceted and synesthesia-invoking scent).

Sharon's eyes were closed for a long time as she smelled a fragrant blotter and she appeared to have been catapulted between a waking state and a dream state. When she opened her eyes her lips parted in a smile. This illustrated story is what she created at the Ann Arbor District Library Smell and Tell. It includes the memory of a chemist who worked as a type of evaluator for a flavor and fragrance company in New Jersey (right click on the picture and save it to read all of the details).

Two more Smell and Tell Workshops are scheduled for the fall of 2012. "Sacred Scents and Aphrodisiacs" will take place at the Ann Arbor District Library on Tuesday, October 30th at 6:30pm. Children at 826MIchigan will experience the thrill of retronasal olfaction when the flavor of bubblegum is dissected in class. The date for this workshop is pending, but Glass Petal Smoke will let you in on a secret; a famous flavorist at Givaudan designed the aromas for this 826Michigan Smell and Tell (she was featured on CBS and in The New Yorker).

Notes:
Glass Petal Smoke is working with Erin Helmrich and the podcasting team at The Ann Arbor District Library to produce programs on the subject of taste and smell. Information will be posted on Glass Petal Smoke and the blog's Twitter page once the schedule is in place.

Kudos to Givaudan who supplied perfumer Yann Vasnier's Le Flacon (a perfume inspired by Baudelaire) and have always supported my educational initiatives. I never asked permission to print the formula for the fragrance in 2008 because it was a radical move to go open source with it; so my gratitude is immense as it won a FiFi nomination and Givaudan embraced it with open arms. Kate Greene, you are truly a gem!

Special thanks go out to Dream Air (Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz) and their supplier Firmenich for providing the scents for the Ann Arbor District Library Smell and Tell. Msr. Laudamiel always answers my perfume history/chemistry questions in beautiful detail and I am most thankful for our professional friendship.

Additional thanks to Laurie Harrsen of the McCormick Corporation who supplied the flavor extracts used at the 826Michigan Smell and Tell. Your flavors led to the students requesting a more "food-oriented" class which I plan on delivering in the fall. Rhodia pencils were supplied by Karen Doherty of Exaclair and turned the experience of writing into a multisensory adventure. Copies of The Name of this Book is Secret, by Pseudonymous Bosch were generous donated by Lisa Moraleda at Little Brown Books for Young Readers, for which the children were most grateful.

Olfactory curriculum helps children connect their feelings to their thoughts, and teaches them to trust the invisible and seek out story in smell. When a child learns how to make something tangible out of an abstract sense like smell they become "makers" of things. Makers of things learn to develop intuition and are less likely to be passive in life and learning. This is the diamond in olfactory curriculum and was the catalyst for the creation of the Smell and Tell workshop for 8-10 year olds that premiered at 826Michigan in Ann Arbor on June 6, 2012. It is also something that resonated with Maria Montessori‘s approach to sensorial education.

826Michigan is one of eight satellite tutoring centers connected to 826National. The centers are designed to help children develop expository writing skills. 826National was founded by award-winning author Dave Eggers and educator Nínive Calegari (they started the first chapter,  826Valencia in San Francisco). Each outpost offers free tutoring which is camouflaged by a storefront with a particular theme. The storefront takes the stigma out of receiving tutoring and generates revenue that goes back into overhead expenses. Glass Petal Smoke recommends visiting the various online storefronts for holiday shopping as proceeds are directed to a terrific cause.

Laura Rose Vlahovich was born without a sense of smell, a condition known as congenital anosmia. She is a talented artist and designed the graphic of the aromas used in the children's Smell and Tell at 826Michigan. Check out Thrift Score, Ms. Vlahovich's Esty shop, for cleverly curated vintage housewares and home decor.

Mandy Aftel single-handedly catapulted the artisan perfumery trend with her book, Essence and Alchemy: A Natural History of Perfume. Aftel is currently working on her second book. Some of her food-grade essential oils (in the pantries of many famous chefs) are available at William Sonoma. The full line of "Chef's Essences" is available at the Aftelier Perfumes website. Mixologists are not strangers to these delightful ingredients, as evidenced in a recent New York Times article.

Rice Paddy Herb is available at Enfleurage. It is a "bucket list" aroma that should be experienced more than once in a lifetime. It evaporates in a brilliant flash of freshness that is sunny, verdant, ozonic and earthy; like standing on a dew-dappled grassy mountain under a blue sky on a perfect summer day. Rice Paddy Herb possesses an addictive cuminesque element minus the funk that reminds cumin haters of body odor. It smells fresh in both senses of the word which is, perhaps, its subconscious power.

Jimmy John's apparel offerings include men's boxer shorts with their "Free Smells" tagline. Smellculturists may infer/gift as they wish. [This product is no longer offered.]

The "Olfactory" graphic was designed by Jennifer Orkin Lewis and is used with permission. Rights revert back to the artist.

Photos of student work and associated images used with permission. Rights revert back to the image holders.

Olfactory Ephemera: The Scent of Dandelions

This summer the aroma of dandelions has eluded lawn mower blades and long stretches of land where wild plants cover the earth with slender blades of grass, spiraling tendrils and radiant flowers. The ground is carpeted by dry grass that crackles like straw underfoot. The smell of cut grass, evocative of cucumber and watermelon, the quintessential fruits of summer, is gone.

In the early evening I seek the aroma of oakmoss, a type of lichen that grows on oak and conifer trees, in a nearby preserve. The thick sappy facet is so faint it feels desiccant, but some hay and tobacco notes still shine through. I pray for rain and spot a pair of dandelions, the circumference of their seed heads uninterrupted by wind or the underside of a human foot.

The next morning I get up early and head for the Ann Arbor Farmer's Market at Kerrytown. I look for dandelions in side streets, lawns bereft of weed killer (not uncommon in the college town of Ann Arbor, Michigan) and cracks in the sidewalk. I find them and wish I could bottle their tenacious fragile beauty. I walk past tables of fruit, pickles, vegetables and pies and stumble upon Down on the Farm, an Amish farmers cooperative based in Homer, Michigan.

The stand is covered in a red and white checkered tablecloth and is topped with tomatoes, cucumbers and jars of homemade jam. I spot a single jar of dandelion jelly and the woman behind the table tells me her mother-in-law made it. I buy it without asking what it tastes like. Her cerulean blue eyes evoke clarity and honesty; they match her dress and bonnet. I am reminded of their color when I gaze skyward at a hawk after leaving the market.

I slowly turn the key in the cylinder of the apartment door when I notice a package to my left. I bring it inside and forget about it until the next day. My mind is peppered with thoughts of  dandelions. The next morning I open the jar of jelly and taste it. The flavor reminds me of smooth black tea with honey and lemon. There's a hint of warm spiciness in the finish that is comforting and mysterious.

I see the box from the previous day's mail delivery next to the kitchen table. I take a knife to it and remove the contents. Inside is bottle of Dandelion perfume by Demeter. It smells like cut grass, creamy musk and yellow flowers. A fantasy of the colors one associates with dandelions. I spray it on my wrists and inhale. It is olfactory ephemera. I am reminded of the smells I miss most this summer...

 

Olfactory Chic: Aroma Molecule Necklaces from Surly-Ramics

Amy Davis Roth is the creatrix behind Surly-Ramics, a thoughtful line of aromatic jewelry inspired by science and nature. Roth's creations are living portraits of aroma that educate the eyes and nose of the beholder. A scent molecule is stamped on the necklace's partially glazed front which illustrates what can only be sensed by the nose; the aroma of an essential oil containing the molecule presented on the pendant.

Glass Petal Smoke asked Ms. Roth what inspired her to fuse science and scent in her jewelry designs. She responded with imagination, clarity and conviction:

"I am a huge advocate and fan of science.  I am constantly seeking new information to incorporate into my work and try to find ways to share what I learn, and to encourage education with my jewelry. Chemistry, specifically molecular structures, seemed like an obvious source in which to find ideas for my art projects. I often think of art as another way of investigating the natural word and if one is going to turn a critical eye upon the objects in nature one (I would assume) would want to understand how that something works down to the tiniest detail. So molecular structures were an obvious stop on my scientific exploration of the world around me. I also think that the geometric structures of molecules and chemical compounds are quite beautiful in their simplicity and are perfect for artistic applications.

The idea of adding scent was actually a simultaneous decision that happened along with making the scented jewelry. My primary goal as an artist and jewelry designer is to find ways of encouraging people to learn about science and to celebrate the scientific body of knowledge and geek culture. I knew that the ceramic material I use as my medium for making jewelry, when left unglazed, is porous and could in theory absorb a scented oil.

My next thought was how I could express the science behind the scent visually while staying away from any unproven aromatherapy claims. The aroma chemicals themselves, written out, seemed like a perfect solution. I thought it would be fantastic to actually be able to see what you smelled, and I hoped the viewer might be inspired to learn more about the chemical later, or to at least make the connection that there is more to scent than just the "smell" alone. I added drawings of flowers and the other plants as design options later, and will be adding new scents and designs in the coming months."

Surly-Ramics currently offers beta-Damascenone (found in rose), jasmone (found in jasmine), linalool (found in lavender), patchoulol (found in patchouli) and vanillin (found in vanilla). The smaller oval pendants are priced at $48.00. The larger circular pendants, which can hold more essential oil as their surface area is larger, are priced at $29.95. All of the ceramic pendants in the Surly-Ramics line are surprisingly lightweight. Each is accompanied by a bottle of essential oil which is used to infuse the pendant. Warning: the temptation to buy more than one necklace is not limited to perfumistas. 

Notes:
Opening a box from Surly-Ramics is like opening a geek's dream present. The carefully packed order arrives with an instructional comic rolled like a scroll in an unstoppered test tube. A unique quote printed on a slender slip of paper can also be found inside the parcel. It looks like it came out of a giant fortune cookie, but the words are more substantive. Glass Petal Smoke received this compassionate and contemplative quote: "Curious that we spend more time congratulating people who have succeeded than encouraging people who have not."--Neil deGrasse Tyson (astrophysicist).

Geosmin and Petrichor: The Perfume of the Earth

Most people know wild carrot as Queen Anne's Lace. The gnarled weedy beginnings of its flowers illustrate the plant's invasive nature, but when these flowers mature they are surprisingly beautiful. The mathematical precision of its white florets are as compelling as a computer generated fractal. The taproot of Queen Anne's Lace is fibrous, sizable and strong. Anyone who has ever pulled up these plants knows that resistance is part of the weeding game, but an interesting gift is bestowed upon the nose for the effort; the root-tinged aroma of geosmin that accompanies the smell of underripe carrots.



When exploring the story of geosmin one cannot avoid a spiritual encounter with the narrative of human terroir. According to the Abrahamic faiths of Judaism, Christianity and Islam we are all made from dirt and destined to return from whence we came. Whether you call it dirt, earth or soil, each are one and the same. This deceptively simple substance allows plants and livestock to flourish, which in turn provides sustenance at our tables. When we shed our mortal coil the earth welcomes our body back and transforms what remains into new life for organisms that will come to life in the future. Gardeners and farmers are particularly conscious of this fact and for them the smell of geosmin in freshly turned earth is the very essence of life.

In the lab geosmin is known by its molecular name; Dimethyl-9-decalol. Geosmin present in the spore coat of actinomyces and streptomyces soil bacteria, which is released into the air before the first rain falls on dry earth, is known as petrichor. In this scenario geosmin is atomized like a perfume and lingers as a soil-water aerosol. In the Eastern tradition of attar making there is a natural perfume inspired by petrichor. It is created by distilling sun-baked earth with sandalwood. It is called Mitti Attar and resembles the smell of the first monsoon rain on parched soil.

It is no surprise that the mystique of geosmin has given birth to several perfumes built around this enchanting molecule. The Smell of Weather Turning by Lush is a handsome interpretation of geosmin expressed in petrichor. It is a slightly chilled fantasy of petrichor where geosmin is supported by oak wood, hay, beeswax, nettle, English peppermint, mint and Roman chamomile. It is a tad woody and the understated cooling aspects make geosmin, an assertive and cloying molecule, more nose-friendly.

Demeter Dirt takes a different approach to geosmin-inspired perfumery with its simple yet hauntingly diaphanous architecture. It includes geosmin, methyl dihydrojasmonate (the floral compound known as Hedione) and transparent musk (the later supporting an uncanny effect that resembles the smell of "just washed" hair). Add a human pulse and Demeter Dirt transforms into a living entity with a subtle sillage capable of breaking your heart into a million pieces should the human censer suddenly disappear. For hardcore geosmin lovers who don't care for olfactory window dressing there's Demeter Beet Root. It smells like its name and has a sweet rouged quality that tempers geosmin with a vague hedonic quality.

If the idea of wearing a geosmin inspired fragrance doesn't resonate with your notion of haute perfumery there's good news. It's July and wild carrots are in season. Now is the perfect time to give a sturdy stalk of Queen Anne's Lace a good yank* and have yourself a sniff or two. Don't be shy. You can take a stealth sniff of the aromatic taproot when no one is looking and pretend you're a naturalist.

Notes:

Composer Adam Neal Scott wrote Petrichor, an experimental ambient music composition. It can be heard in its entirety and downloaded for free online. Listen to it on your i-Pod if you decide to go wild carrot hunting and indulge in a multisensory experience of your own making. P.S. Glass Petal Smoke recommends making a donation when you download Scott's music. 

Geologists I.G. Bear and R.G. Thomas coined the term Petrichor in 1964. It can be found in their paper, "Nature of Agrillaceous Odor." 

Glass Petal Smoke highly recommends Dirt: The Ecstatic Skin of the Earth by William Bryant Logan. It is a scientualist's delight and will make you think before you step on the ground.

The best Mitti Attar I've ever smelled is sold by White Lotus Aromatics. It is a seasonal product so you'll need to check on its availability.

The Smell of Weather Turning can be purchased at the LUSH website. It is available in a variety of sizes and is currently available in liquid and solid form.

Demeter Fragrances are available in a variety of retail stores. You can order their fragrances directly from their website.

"Making the Case for Beets," is a must-read if you want to understand the role that geosmin plays in the flavor profile of beets. Kudos to writer Susan Russo who has some interesting things to say on Food Blogga. You can follow Susan on Twitter.

You can read about Hedione and other marvelous aroma molecules in this article from the February 2009 edition of Chemistry World. 

Sarah Gordon is the artist that created the painting for The Smell of Weather Turning for LUSH. 

Photo of the wild carrot taproot is from Jone's Farmer Blog.  Rights revert back to the site. 

*If you decide to pull up a wild carrot or two make sure to wash your hands afterwards as a chemical component found in its leaves reacts with sunlight (a reaction known as phytophotodermatitis). Phytophotodermatitis is also caused by the molecule bergapten which is removed from Bergamot essential oil in IFRA-compliant perfumery.