Monday, April 18, 2016
A Message from Michelle Krell Kydd: Editor of Glass Petal Smoke
I was inspired to launch Glass Petal Smoke in 2007 after receiving training and education in perfumery at Givaudan and the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). I'd been working as a marketing and communications consultant in the fragrance industry and fell in love with the art+science connection in perfumery. The world of scent, with its strong connection to memory and emotion, opened my eyes to a world of possibilities beyond sight.
Most of what I learned about the perfume arts was derived from the vantage point of an insider positioned in a highly secretive industry. Access serves as a starting point when one is intensely driven by curiosity. Where one arrives depends on how deeply one wants to explore the terrain, which itself depends upon the willingness to ask questions. The more I learned about aromatic materials and the people who shaped them as perfumes and flavors, the more questions I had.
I taught myself how to read science papers and developed a passion for inquiry. With this came a strong desire to share what I learned. Blogging has allowed me to do this, but getting out in the world and teaching others how to describe smells using the method I was taught in perfumery school has allowed me to transform knowledge into multisensory experiences. This is what Smell and Tell lectures are all about.
Describing a smell requires that you decode the invisible. What I find most striking about this process is how it brings people together by generating respect and understanding in the face of different points of view. A side effect of olfactory training in perfumery is that it is powerfully self-authenticating. Because perception is filtered through autobiographical memory, differences of opinion are not about right or wrong; they are about experience and one's personal story. This allows diverse observations regarding what something smells like to be contained in the same space; just like complementary and contrasting ingredients used in combination to create a perfume or a delicious dish.
Education is just as important to me now as it was nine years ago, if not more so. The sense of smell is least explored in classroom settings and this has always puzzled me in spite of everything I've experienced as a public speaker who creates multisensory experiences for the purpose of exploring the sense of smell and building community. Education as we know it simply doesn't offer enough opportunities to learn in non-judgmental settings. Students are educated to make the grade, which is rooted in whether or not they have assimilated material to the point of being right or wrong. This kills curiosity.
The need for inclusion of olfaction as a legitimate sensory modality in K-12 and higher education is both a scientific and cultural imperative. I've worked to affect this at Smell and Tell lectures; at the University of Michigan; at TEDxUofM, and by creating the #AromaBox, an analog scent device that can be used in classroom settings and beyond. I believe that what I've learned via The Jean Carles Method of olfactory training, as well as conversations with scientists and perfumers, inspires curiosity of the highest order and is worthy of inquiry at all levels.
Without curiosity we cannot cultivate the kind of creativity that leads to understanding and problem solving. At best we engage with trends, entrepreneurial jingoism and what others decide is important to us as a culture. Remove curiosity and our internal compass falls into a heap of shards. Who we are and who we are meant to be suffers dearly because we not only lose direction; we lose time. Being human is inclusive of integrated sensory experiences and if we are going to develop technology that incorporates sensors, especially those that address assistive and safety needs, we must get better at including all of the senses; hearing, sight, touch, taste and smell.
To stay curious we need to pay attention. Digital life can remove us from face-to-face interaction with others outside of routines like shopping, commuting and work. It also removes us from nature as we more commonly inhabit indoor and mental spaces daily. This was recently illustrated in "That Strange Country Smell," an article that appeared in the New York Times' Metropolitan Diary on March 26, 2016, and was inspired by a four-year-old child who was offended by the smell of cut grass. Materials in perfumery are a gift from nature whose design lives in all of us at a cellular level. Nature feeds us, clothes us and provides us with shelter. We need to know her. Intimately.
This is not to say that we are in dire straights because connecting with nature is a choice. We know who we are and who we are becoming through our memories, dreams and reflections. Smell is memory's sense and memory is identity. In a world fraught with misunderstanding and clashes of culture we need to connect with others who may or may not be like us. Nothing does this better than interacting with the sense of smell, and the intersection of smell plus taste, which is flavor. We need to face each other, break bread with each other, and delight in the garden that is life as we share stories of our common humanity.
Think of this when you indulge in Ma'amoul Tea Cake and the accompanying stories that inspired last week’s nine-year anniversary post. The recipe was enkindled by everything you've read thus far and its spirit will ignite future stories on Glass Petal Smoke.
P.S. If you live in or near Ann Arbor I encourage you to get inside your olfactory mind at a Smell and Tell event. These talks take place at the Ann Arbor District Library in the heart of downtown Ann Arbor. I created the Smell and Tell series in 2012 and demand for programming continues to grow.
Notes:
Research is catching up with the sense of smell and its importance in the human organism. The driving force in all of this is the rise of incurable neurodegenerative brain diseases like Alzheimer's and Dementia, which dissolve patients' memories (smell loss is the first symptom). More research is being conducted on the absence of smell at birth (congenital anosmia) and future findings will allow researchers to dig more deeply into the genetics of olfaction so they can solve problems beyond anosmia. In addition, olfaction is not limited to the human nose; it takes place on a cellular level in other parts of the body that are dependent on chemical communication.
Better ways of managing neurodegenerative brain disease will arrive in the coming years, benefiting everyone on the planet. It's an exciting time to get to know your sense of smell, and what it means in your life and the lives of those you love. Glass Petal Smoke looks forward to serving curious minds and serendipitous guests so each of you may discover that getting in touch with the sense of smell is the best way to discover who you really are.
Wednesday, April 13, 2016
Glass Petal Smoke Celebrates Its Ninth Anniversary with Ma'amoul Tea Cake
The recipe for Ma'amoul Tea Cake is offered to aficionados of Glass Petal Smoke as a token of appreciation in honor of the blog's ninth anniversary. Ma'amoul Tea Cake is fashioned after a Middle Eastern cookie of the same name, which inspired a story published in 2007; the same year Glass Petal Smoke was launched.
"In Search of a Cookie (Part One): Ma'amoul" is the first of two posts that tell the story of a pair of friends on a cookie quest inspired by remembrance. "In Search of a Cookie (Part Two): Cuccidati Revealed" follows the quest to conclusion, illustrating the need to commune with lost loved ones via sweet morsels from childhood that erase the bitterness of their absence.
Ma'amoul Tea Cake
(Yield: 10-12 Servings)
(Yield: 10-12 Servings)
Ingredients:
- 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
- ¼ cup golden flaxseed meal
- ½ cup natural cane sugar
- ½ teaspoon cinnamon
- 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder (non-aluminum)
- ¼ teaspoon baking soda
- ½ teaspoon sea salt (non-iodized)
- 5-6 ounces chopped medjool dates
- ½ cup chopped walnuts
- 2 large eggs (slightly beaten, room temperature)
- ⅓ cup sweet unsalted butter (melted and cooled)
- 1 cup low-fat, low-sodium buttermilk (room temperature)
- 1 ½ teaspoon of grated organic orange zest
- 6-8 saffron threads (infused by soaking in 2 tbsp warm water for 10 minutes)
- 4 drops food grade essential oil of Neroli (can substitute 1½ tbsp orange blossom water)
- 1 teaspoon Madagascar vanilla extract
Instructions:
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
- Grease one 9 x 5 x 3 inch loaf pan (or three 5.75 x 3 inch loaf pans) with cooking spray.
- In a large bowl sift flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add infused sugar and flaxseed meal, blending well.
- In a medium-size bowl, mix eggs, melted butter, saffron infusion, vanilla extract, food grade Neroli (or orange blossom water) and orange zest. Add buttermilk and incorporate. Add chopped medjool dates and walnuts to the wet mixture.
- Make a well in the center of the bowl with the dry ingredients and add wet ones. Combine wet and dry ingredients together, folding gently with a silicone spatula. Be careful not to overmix.
- Pour batter into prepared pans and spread evenly. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes (30 to 35 minutes for smaller loads), or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean.
- Allow to cool for 10 minutes. Remove from pans and place on a wire rack to continue cooling.
- Refrigerate or freeze for future use. The large loaf yields 10 to 12 slices; the smaller loaf yields 5 to 6 slices.
Notes:
Glass Petal Smoke is an award-winning blog designed to inform those who are led by inspiration, joy and wonder when it comes to the world of flavor and fragrance. Its mission, vision and values haven't changed over the years. Glass Petal Smoke remains a vibrant educational vehicle maintaining the integrity upon which its reputation rests.
Thursday, April 7, 2016
The Nose: An Interdisciplinary Art+Science Collaboration
"The Nose" is an art and science collaboration featuring animation by Seán Vicary. "Nose Song," the soundtrack that accompanies the video, was written by Sam Lee and Llywelyn ap Myrddin. Vicary used the experience of coping with his mother's dementia to explore the sense of smell in a surreal olfactory landscape inspired by science. Smell is memory's sense and one of the first senses to dissolve when neurodegenerative diseases of the brain like dementia take hold. It's not hard to imagine the role catharsis played in Vicary's creative process, which has the visual sillage of a neuroscientist asleep on a surrealistic pillow.
Art and science are equally elevated in the video for
"The Nose" and multiple arts at that. This is a natural extension of
artist-animators, musicians and scientists combining disciplines in order to solve a problem. How does one communicate the sense of smell when smells are invisible along with the wiring for olfactory perception, which cannot be seen? An interdisciplinary approach answers this as multiple ways of seeing and being in the world create an integrated point of view that speaks to more than one audience.
There is a genuine need to know more about who we are and how we're made when it comes to the reality of being a human organism. Stories that feed the desire to understand one's physiology and chemosensory system cannot be found in the pages of academic journals and textbooks alone; we need artists of all kinds to bring the unseen and seemingly inexplicable to life in meaningful ways that can be understood by everyone.
Songwriter Sam Lee drew on the expertise of pathologist Dr. Laura Casey and Dr. Simon Gane (both of University College London Hospital), Dr. Darren Logan (Wellcome Trust Sanger Institute, Cambridge) and fragrance expert Nick Gilbert in order to write "Nose Song" with Llywelyn ap Myrddin. Seán Vicary added the medium of animation to bridge sight with sound. The only thing missing in the video experience is scent, which must be imagined.
There is a genuine need to know more about who we are and how we're made when it comes to the reality of being a human organism. Stories that feed the desire to understand one's physiology and chemosensory system cannot be found in the pages of academic journals and textbooks alone; we need artists of all kinds to bring the unseen and seemingly inexplicable to life in meaningful ways that can be understood by everyone.
Songwriter Sam Lee drew on the expertise of pathologist Dr. Laura Casey and Dr. Simon Gane (both of University College London Hospital), Dr. Darren Logan (Wellcome Trust Sanger Institute, Cambridge) and fragrance expert Nick Gilbert in order to write "Nose Song" with Llywelyn ap Myrddin. Seán Vicary added the medium of animation to bridge sight with sound. The only thing missing in the video experience is scent, which must be imagined.
Labdanum and Ambergris are mentioned in the soundtrack for "The Nose"
which uses footage from 8mm film taken when the videographer's mother spent time in
India as a child, surrounded by aromas of Balsam and Jasmine. Imagine what it would be like if one could smell the scents inferred and declared in "The Nose" while the video was being played. The experience isn't currently available, but research will ensure that it lives in the not-too-distant future. Glass Petal Smoke predicts that digital scent delivery will first be implemented in virtual environments and migrate to other platforms afterward. Until then we can depend on a method used in the perfume arts; smelling essence-dipped fragrance blotters.
Notes:
The world needs to experience more art and science collaborations like "The Nose" in order to transform the sense of smell from its status as the bastard stepchild of the senses into a legitimate sensory modality that is valued and understood. Art and science collaborations will flourish as research into neurodegenerative diseases of the brain reveals findings that allow us to inhibit and potentially eradicate memory-destroying diseases for good.
The video of "The Nose" is one of several songs inspired by body organs that can be found on Body of Songs. The Body of Songs project is supported by Wellcome Trust and Arts Council England.
Sam Lee talks about the sense of smell and songwriting as it relates to "The Nose" on Soundcloud. You can listen to it here.
Tuesday, March 22, 2016
Perfume Notes: The Admixture of Study and Memory
Castoreum absolute, castoreum resinoid, galbanum oil, galbanum CO2, Muscenone®, Exaltolide®, Velvione®, ambrette CO2, ambrette essential oil, and ambergris mother tincture. Pieces of olfactory poetry I've been smelling all evening.
Thinking about a formula for musk, ambergris and benzoin
that goes back to the days of the Silk Road. Wishing that musk deer weren't
hunted to near extinction and wondering if I could replicate that ancient formula with
other things. I am time traveling as I smell the raw materials that arrived by
post today. A journey colored by sensory impressions makes the "wish" perfume everything.
I need that imaginary Victorian house with a study and a lab
to manifest. In the meantime neighbors across the way watch me through their
windows with puzzled looks (even the perpetual gamers who sit transfixed on
their living room floor with their corneas burning as they work their Xbox to
death).
Droppers go into amber bottles, things get mixed, I smell long strips of paper that have been dipped in odorants and take copious notes in an oversized black laboratory
notebook. If I had a black cat the scenario would be complete; the neighbors
would think I was a witch.
Fresh from today's experiment rack; a large piece of fresh
Copal tinctured and shaken. In 30 days it will be fully macerated for perfumery
work. A friend brought the Copal back from Mexico (an acquaintance whose
anthropologist husband delivered aromatic mysteries* from eastern Paraguay a few days earlier and asked me
to burn them and share my olfactory impressions). The fresh Copal resembles
the smell of the cleanest Frankincense I know; fresh Luban from Oman.
As soon as I remember this I am no longer at my desk. I am
at Enfleurage and Trygve Harris is holding a large bowl of fresh Luban under my
nose and encouraging me to take a deep breath. I snap out of the reverie and feel homesick for New York.
A knapsack sits by my desk and smells like the Copal which
was wrapped in wax paper and placed inside for safekeeping during the day.
Whenever I get a whiff of it I hear the sound of crushed pine needles under my
feet and smell the sun. Then I remember a line from a Chanel ad in the 80's and
become this; I am made of blue sky and golden light, and I will feel this way
forever."
It is no longer night...
It is no longer night...
Notes:
The items given to me by the anthropologist are used by the Aché tribe of eastern Paraguay. They include: a vulture feather, a mixture of ash and beeswax called Gachĩ, and bark of the Myrocarpus frondosus tree (also known as Cabreuva in perfumery). The vulture feather is for healing venomous snakebites and is used with Gachĩ to promote healing. Gachĩ forces the spirits of the dead to leave humans (they are believed to cause fevers) and also weakens thunder. Each of these ingredients are used in "smoke" rituals by the Aché.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)