M’Eau Joe № 3: The Fragrance Brief

Opus Oils and Glass Petal Smoke are collaborating on another fragrance creation; M’Eau Joe № 3. The fragrance is inspired by three things that resonate with myself and perfumer Kedra Hart; rock 'n roll, the blues and perfume. (Confession: we're both rather fond of Jack White and have seen It Might Get Loud more times that we thought was humanly possible.) 

Fragrance briefs are designed to give direction to perfumers so what is imagined in words will result in a perfume that inspires emotions, memories and archetypes associated with the scent story. I've worked on few fragrance briefs in my day (can't say for who because of the non-disclosure agreements I've signed), but I can tell you that they come in all shapes and sizes. Some are elaborate and some are as short as a single page. Competitive fragrances are usually mentioned as are demographics targeted by age and gender. The essence of M’Eau Joe № 3 is not constrained by these requirements so you'll get to see creativity up close and personal; starting with the brief. 

As a perfumer, Kedra Hart will rely on the contents of the fragrance brief for inspiration and use what moves her to create a formula. The formula will be tweaked as part of the fragrance development process. Each variation of the formula is referred to as a "mod" in the business which is short for modification. Glass Petal Smoke will evaluate the mods and provide guidance in the development process, respecting the perfumer's style and the contents of the brief. Fasten your seat belts ladies and gents; it's going to be an interesting ride.    

M’Eau Joe № 3

A Fragrance Brief Prepared by Michelle Krell Kydd 

Presented to Kedra Hart of Opus Oils

M’Eau Joe № 3: The Scent

A fragrance inspired by the charismatic magnetism that is unique to musicians; blues/rock guitarists in particular. Subtext includes cooking and magic.

The Name:

·     A play on the word “mojo” referencing the term “eau” in perfumery. “Eau” is the French word for “water” in English and is the phonetic sound of pleasure often found in blues /rock songs.

·      “Joe” as a universal man’s name and a character in the Jimi Hendrix song “Hey Joe,” the first song to draw acclaim for the renowned guitarist on the English charts. 

·      Music and perfumery are linked. Base, middle and top fragrance “notes” reflect the rate of evaporation in a perfume, which in sum is referred to as a “composition.”

·      N°3 as a numeric reference that is pervasive in mythology and religion (life, death, and rebirth). The number three is known to be a favorite of musician Jack White.

·      “Mojo” is a spicy sauce used to marinade meat. It contains olive oil, garlic, paprika, cumin and citrus (usually lemon, orange, lime) or vinegar. Mojo originated in the Canary Islands and is common in the cuisine of Cuba, Puerto Rico and the Caribbean Islands.

·      “Mojo” can refer to a concealed cloth bag (red flannel) containing a magical charm and herbs that are carried for good luck. In “Hoodoo Theory and Practice,” Catherine Yronwode links scent and mojo, “…mojo hands are customarily fed with scented liquids that are themselves derived from various magical herbal ingredients -- herbal conjure oils, magical herbal-floral colognes, and even liquors such as whiskey ("water of life") in which herbs have been soaked. This is nature magic, the use of this earth's spiritual interweb of magically active beings, in which persons, animals, plants, and minerals are bound together in social patterns on an invisible plane.”

Defining Mojo:

Mojo says everything about being alive. Mojo gets inside a person’s soul, in the place where wonder, mystery and longing live, waiting to be stirred. How do you know you’ve encountered mojo? Your heart skips a beat in its presence and when the source of mojo is gone you are left with a combination of satisfaction and yearning. Mojo is pure unadulterated magic; the essence of the creative force of life. If you’ve got it you naturally give it, but no one can take it away from you unless you lose it, (this has been known to happen to several performers and self-proclaimed Casanovas).

The Connection between Mojo and Perfume:

Perfume is an invisible talisman of power meant to pleasure and attract. Perfumers alleged to have mojo by the perfumista digerati include: Christopher Sheldrake (under the direction of Serge Lutens, currently developing fragrances for Chanel), Maurice Roucel, Germaine Cellier, Yann Vasnier, Christophe Laudamiel, etc. Perfumers with mojo break olfactory barriers. They don’t think outside the box; they smash it to bits. They can’t help it. It’s who they are. Jimi Hendrix smashed guitars. Perfumers smash boundaries (and sometimes glass).

Packaging

The fragrance could be housed in an amber bottle with potion-inspired labeling (retro chic rockin’ mad science kind of thing). Packaging should include a red velvet bag in homage to a mojo hand with a talisman hidden inside.

Inspiration for Creation:

 "I always return to the number three. I use it as a basis for everything I do. Red, white, black... Vocals, guitar, drums. Storytelling, rhythm, melody. I was also one of three upholsterers on my block growing up. The Holy Trinity, that's the big one." –Jack White of the White Stripes

Links:

Perfume101: Stealing Mojo (a story featured on Glass Petal Smoke)

16 Great Things About Jack White

In Brief: What Exactly is a Fragrance Brief?

Recipe for Cuban Mojo Sauce

“Hoodoo Theory and Practice,” by Catherine Yronwode

Notes: 
Graphic for “M’Eau Joe № 3 is Cooking,” and “Mojo” perfume bottle designed by Michelle Krell Kydd. 

Photo of Jack White taken by Scott Penner at the Ottawa Blues Festival in 2009. Licensed via Creative Commons.

Olfactory Studies: Honeysuckle and Poplar Buds Absolute by Aftelier Perfumes

A perfume absolute is the concentrated aromatic essence of a plant. It is derived using solvents (hexane or liquid CO2) as opposed to steam distillation which is used to extract essential oils. An absolute is rich, complex and yields its character over time, a quality that halos the absolute as a perfect subject for olfactory study. The allure of terroir also adds to an absolute's intrigue, but its devastating beauty is what compels most.

Interest in difficult to find and renowned absolutes is growing among  independent perfumers who join traditional perfumers in a love affair with rare and sacred ingredients.  When Givaudan's Yann Vasnier created the a perfume based on Baudelaire's "Le Flacon" for Glass Petal Smoke, he described the pedigree of Rose de Mai absolute used to formulate the fragrance with the passion of a vintner, "It is from the famous rose fields of Grasse," he said, "fields adjacent to the same roses harvested for Chanel No. 5 and that is the best rose in perfumery."

Because absolutes are expensive one will not always find rare variations in the traditional perfumer's palette. This indulgence is left to independent perfumers and luxury niche brands who actively seek the rare and the sacred for their perfume formulas. Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes offers independent perfumers, fragrance enthusiasts, and collectors a carefully curated selection of raw materials. Aftel recently acquired Honeysuckle Absolute and Poplar Buds Absolute; the first is a rare essence, the latter is a sacred essence that has a history of healing and is respected among herbalists. Poplar Buds Absolute is commonly mistaken for the biblical Balm of Gilead that is derived from Balsam of Mecca (Commiphora gileadensis, syn. C. opobalsamum) which is related to myrrh. Poplar buds are used in salves as they possess healing properties that are anti-inflammatory, antipyretic and analgesic. These properties are due to the presence of salicylate precursors related to aspirin*.

Aftelier Perfume Poplar Buds Absolute is fruity, floral and animalic in nature. When smelled neat it can be slightly off-putting due to the initial aroma of overripe stone fruits. If given time to breathe Poplar Buds Absolute reveals a rich olfactory impression and is an ingredient worthy of the perfumer's palette. It follows the following pattern of evaporation over time:

Top:
Green - Acacia (Mimosa) Absolute 
Sweet - Cassis (Blackcurrant)
Middle:
Floral - Genet (Broom)
Fruity - Osmanthus
Base:
Balsamic - Peru Balsam
Animalic - Beeswax, Leathery (Cistus Labdanum like)
Woody - Calmus

Honeysuckle Absolute is rarely used in perfumery because there is little of it to go around; it is simply too expensive to produce. Honeysuckle flowers emit their fragrance at dusk and the gathering of blossoms must occur at a specified time. Most "honeysuckle" perfumes on the market contain synthetic honeysuckle which has a musky citrus apricot quality resembling the fresh flower versus the complex character of an absolute.

Aftelier Perfume Honeysuckle Absolute is sourced from Italy. Little is known regarding the olfactory profile of Honeysuckle Absolute in general as it is so rare (little if any gas chromatography–mass spectrometry has been conducted on the raw material and there is no reliable data on its flashpoint and safety). Honeysuckle Absolute offers an aromatic impression that is less complex than Poplar Bud Absolute, but it engages the senses by telling the kaleidoscopic story of all narcotic florals (Tuberose, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Magnolia, etc.) The character it reveals is one of a white floral vintage which evaporates in fits and starts before reaching a honeyed dry down that echoes the enigmatic scent of autumn outdoors. The order of olfactory impressions is contained in the accompanying graphic.
















Experiencing the smell of something as complex as a perfume absolute takes patience and quietude. It can take a few hours to see how the aroma unfolds, but the process is rewarding with continued practice. Evaluating aromas teaches us to separate our likes and dislikes from what experience in the present. This allows us to savor the moment for what it has to offer. Glass Petal Smoke recommends cataloging sensory impressions in the form of an olfactory diary should you choose to take up olfactory study. Some aromatic qualities may be difficult to express in words which is as it should be. The savor of mystery is just as precious as a fleeting moment of perfection that can never be repeated.

Notes:
Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes curates an interesting selection of essential oils and absolutes, as well as singular and compounded natural isolates.

Ryan Drum of Island Herbs has an interesting article on poplar bud harvesting with detailed information on the raw materials active constituents.

*Poplar Buds contain salicylates which can cause a reaction in people with aspirin allergies. If you have an aspirin allergy avoid poplar bud absolute.

Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel offers tips on how to smell perfume from a smelling strip (blotter) in this post on Glass Petal Smoke. 

Photo Credits:
Image of the poplar bud taken by photographer Marilylle Soveran and edited by Michelle Krell Kydd. It is licensed under Creative Commons.

Image of honeysuckle taken by AWA and edited by Michelle Krell Kydd is licensed under Creative Commons.

Images of Aftelier Perfume absolutes provided by Mandy Aftel, and edited by Michelle Krell Kydd.

Photo collage with absolutes and plant shots created by Michelle Krell Kydd using attributed images. Some rights reserved.

Photo of rosin by Just Plain Bill (Creative Commons). Quote from a letter to Crawdaddy's editor by singer Patti Smith added by Michelle Krell Kydd. Some rights reserved.

Bela Lugosi Was a Perfumer: Strange Oriental Perfume

Bela Lugosi was renowned for the villainous characters he played in horror movies. When the actor was cast as Dracula, the consummate image of the vampire was forever inscribed in his Hungarian accent.  In "The Devil Bat" Lugosi deploys requisite mad scientist electric shocks to an ordinary bat which alters its size and turns its nocturnal disposition towards the dark side. The experiment includes another protagonist; a men's aftershave formulated with ingredients found in the Oriental category of fragrance families.

The movie begins in the laboratory of Dr. Paul Carruthers who is portrayed by Lugosi. The scientist is seen taking a satisfying whiff from a bottle. He closes his eyes, inhales and reveals a smile of satisfaction. The shot is innocuous at first, but when Lugosi saturates a piece of gauze with his fragrance and puts it under the nose of the physically altered bat, the aroma of his intentions is revealed. 

Lugosi programs the bat to smell and kill (frame 7:43) and the scene is as campy as horror films get. Dr. Carruthers speaks and the bat shrieks in response to his words, which are comically reinforced by a pair of lab tongs holding the perfumed gauze under the winged creature's nose, "You hate this strange oriental fragrance even while you sleep, just as you did before I made you big and strong. Now, if you detect the fragrance in the night, when you are finally awake you will strike; strike to kill!" 

Dr. Carruthers, an embittered cosmetics chemist, provides samples of the aftershave to unsuspecting business partners and their family members. The scheme is fueled by his sense of being taken advantage of as his creativity is the source of the company's profits. Were this a modern tale Dr. Carruthers would not give in to his murderous inclinations and instead hand in his resignation papers and open up his own perfumery boutique a la Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

Today there is no shortage of mass market fragrances capable of making humans shriek like a "devil bat." (Many of them are disguised as deodorant body sprays, the low-fi approach to cologne that is popular with adolescent boys who have a tendency to turn up the olfactory volume to the "shrill" setting.) The reference to an oriental aftershave in "The Devil Bat" is a curious one. Historically, men's aftershave formulas are modeled on Eau de Cologne from Europe which is fresh and citrus based, reflecting the "quiet perfect grooming" sentiment in Lenthéric's 1938 aftershave ad. Oriental fragrances are spicy, amber-laced and exotic.

The men's aftershave category in the U.S. was born during the Depression, the same time the oriental category in fine fragrance for women fell out of favor. This is what probably led to the "strange oriental fragrance" reference in "The Devil Bat" which was released in 1940. (Dr. Carruthers touts Tibet as the source for his "secret ingredient" and though he never reveals the ingredient by name he alludes to it's ceremonial use by lamas.) So what would Dr. Carruther's calamitous aftershave have resembled?  Francis Kurkdijan's oriental APOM pour Homme?  We may never know. "The Devil Bat" writers John T. Neville (screenplay) and George Bricker (original story) aren't exactly on speaking terms with the living now. A medium would be required for a round of Eau de Ouija Board and that would take some doing...

Notes:
"The Devil Bat" is available on DVD, but is also in the public domain. If you are a perfumista it should be sitting next to your copy of the film Perfume: The Story of a Murderer.

Image of Bela Lugosi as Dr. Carruthers touting the formula for his evil aftershave lotion from "The Devil Bat." Rights revert back to the original owners.

Batty for fragrance? Try Lemon Scented Sticky Bat from Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab which is based a blog post written by Neil Gaiman in 2007.

Thanks go out to The Glob who hosts a weekly horror movie program on public access television in Michigan. I grew up on horror movies, but somehow missed "The Devil Bat" during my formative years. The program inspired this post.

The Truth is Stranger than Fiction (or Bela Lugosi is Haunting My House): Two days after completing this post a family of bats hibernating in the eaves revealed themselves with cranky squealing and scrabbling in the ceiling of our bedroom. If you find yourself in a similar situation don't read about bat infestations before bed. Why? This is an excerpt from the Critter Control website (2012): 

"If you woke up because a bat landed on you while you were sleeping or if you awakened and found a bat in your room, you should try to safely capture the bat by bat trapping and have it tested. The same precautions should be used if you see a bat in a room with an unattended child, or see a bat near a mentally impaired or intoxicated person. The small teeth of the bat can make a bite difficult to find. Be safe and in these situations, try to safely capture the bat, have the bat tested, and seek medical advice. As always the best solution when you need help getting rid of bats and with bat trapping, would be to contact a Critter Control bat removal specialist in your area."

Adventures in Scent: Bella Des Patchouli Champa Hand Cream

There is no middle ground when it comes to how patchouli and champa affect olfactory preferences; one either loves or hates these tenacious beauties. Both ingredients flirt with the sacred and sensual. Historically, patchouli is a shapeshifter; a sign of luxury in the 18th and 19th centuries, and the aroma of hedonism in the 1960's. Champa became routed in olfactory consciousness around the same time free love took over stateside. The scent is derived from a type of incense used in ashrams and continues to appeal to many as a tool for meditation. Champa is made from a combination of plumeria, halmaddi (a tree resin that contains the psychoactive β-Carboline) and sandalwood. It is lush, floral, resinous and hypnotic. Those who love champa know it can steal you away in a curl of incense smoke faster than you can chant "om shanti om."

Desiree Watson is a classically trained biologist who started Bella Des Natural Beauty because she couldn't find skin care products that performed well on sensitive skin. She has an affinity for natural ingredients and is highly in tune with the affects of scent in skin care products, "Scent can be a barrier or an invitation. Smell is the first sense a product interacts with. Hand someone a new product and watch what they do. They almost always smell it before anything else. If someone doesn't like a product's fragrance, it doesn't matter what other fabulous ingredients are in it, they are done. I want my scents to be appealing, but not overwhelming, so almost everyone, after smelling it, will try the product on their skin."

Bella Des Patchouli Champa Hand Cream reflects Watson's exacting standards and technical prowess. It also illustrates what she does best; creating the perfect balance between formula and scent. Where does she find inspiration for her products?  "I get a lot inspiration from food. I love to cook and I love cuisine with lots of interesting flavors. My favorites are Indian, Thai and Mexican. One of the first products I invented is Virgin Coconut Hand Cream. I was cooking a lot of Thai at the time and was inspired by some of the dishes I was making. That is how lemongrass and coriander essential oils became part of the formula for Virgin Coconut Hand Cream. These scents blend perfectly with the subtle creamy coconut aroma that organic virgin coconut oil lends to the product. I also created a beauty product that is" technically" food. My Natural Sugar Body Polish in Ginger Lemon is natural, edible and it tastes really good! This one was inspired by my love of fresh ginger; I will add ginger to any dish that lends itself to the flavorful root's refreshing and spicy qualities."

For Watson, champa is part of the smellscape encountered in Indian supermarkets in Ann Arbor, Michigan, where she actively seeks new sensory experiences and nurtures those close to her heart. She is as fierce a cook as she is a chemist, seeking inspiration from the ordinary to the exotic. This is how champa rekindled its love affair with patchouli in Bella Des Patchouli Champa Hand Cream. "The incense aisle at the market has always been a part of the shopping experience. For me, champa creates a backdrop against the aromas of foods and spices I discover in the store. The mixture of scents is like a perfume that tells me where I am. It's like travel; the sights the sounds, the smells, all of these things influence your memories. The memories follow me back into the lab."

There is a distinctive synergy in Bella Des Patchouli Champa Hand Cream that makes the combination of patchouli and champa instantly appealing. A warm woody quality weaves between the two raw materials and steadies the delivery of the scent. There is something refreshing in the mix that resembles a lactonic lemon note, which is where the hand cream's olfactory balance is rooted. How did patchouli get mixed in with the champa? "I can remember that my older sister, who I literally thought the sun revolved around, used to wear patchouli. I used to go into her room and smell her perfumes when she wasn't home. She really likes Bella Des Patchouli Champa Hand Cream. Perhaps I subconsciously made it for her. That's funny, I never really thought about my first encounter with patchouli."

Speaking of first encounters, be on the lookout for a Bella Des ultra rich face cream which is currently in development. The delicate scents in Ms. Watson's facial care line revolve around natural ingredients versus aromas added to camouflage chemical odors that are part of mass market moisturizers. Judging from the samples sent to Glass Petal Smoke, something scentastic this way comes...

Notes: 
Bella Des Natural Beauty makes rich and luxurious body products that exceed expectations when it comes to price and performance. Glass Petal Smoke recommends Patchouli Champa Hand Cream, Inspiration Foot Cream (gorgeous application of Eucalyptus citriodora and rose geranium), 100% Natural Vitamin Lip Balm (mild aroma of coconut oil, lasts and lasts), Orange Ginger Pin-up Soap (fresh citrus and shimmering ginger),  Facial Hydrating Spray (binds moisturizer to skin and refreshes), and the cream-based Facial Cleanser.

"Patchouli Has a Flashpoint of 190°," is a great piece of olfactory chic. The t-shirt is made by burninghippy.com and is available in a variety of colors/styles on Zazzle. You can view the selection by clicking here. Rights to the photograph featured in this post revert back to burninghippy.com.

A "smellscape" is a space defined by smell. The space can be a store, a landscape, a neighborhood, any place with defined boundaries. This interview with olfactory artist Sissel Tolas on Edible Geography delves into the smellscape concept. Architects are also interested in smellscapes as olfaction is a part of the landscape that relates to the planning and design of buildings.