Rose Pleasures in Food, Drink & Beauty

The nature of sensory pleasures is fleeting, but the essence of something, its individual “spirit” if you will, moves beyond the ephemeral and is fixed in eternity. Outstanding applications of florals exist in artisan foods and luxury beauty products, but access to them is limited based on cost, availability and knowledge. If one desires to dally with a variety of fragrant temptations, there is no better place to start than the rose.

Rose is the oldest domesticated flower known to mankind. Highly cultivated it is one of the first flowers humans recognize by sight and scent. Red roses symbolize love and we have the Victorians to thank for cultivating a language of flowers based on color and floral arrangement. The Romans adored roses and petals were customarily strewn at weddings and celebrations (the Emperor Nero allegedly slept on rose petals and had his floors carpeted with them as well). In ancient Rome, a door marked with a rose was a sign that confidential matters were being discussed inside. This practice led to the Latin term sub rosa (meaning “under the rose") which was applied to exchanges requiring secrecy. On an historic note, the culinary introduction of Southern Europe's Gallic Rose to Britain was likely Roman in origin. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Gallic Rose was cultivated by Benedictine monks and became an emblem of Christianity.

In the 17th century the Dominican monks of Santa Maria Novella developed Elisir di Rose (Rose Elixir), a delightful cordial made with Gallic Rose which is still made today. The Italian liquor possesses a soft blush and is tenderly sweet on the palate. The Elisir is best drank neat, but weaves an enchanting spell when mixed with chilled Nivole, a Moscato D’ Asti from Michele Chiarlo of Italy. A single shot of Elisir mixed with half a glass of Nivole achieves the perfect balance of fruity floral flavors. The effervescence of the Asti melds seamlessly with Elisir di Rose and creates a refreshing sensation that rises above the delicate bubbles in the wine, bringing to mind the sights and scents of a rose garden. Champagne may also be used in combination with Elisir di Rose, a delirious combination dubbed the “Rosa Novella.”

Rose and sugar are eager bedfellows so it is not surprising to find them flagrantly Rose candy that brilliantly surpasses expectations. For the inexperienced, fear of the cloying taste of potpourri dissipates as a miniscule dusting of powdered sugar gives way to a hint of true Rose Maroc, balanced with an ethereal trace of ripe berries.
commingling in jams and hard candies. The Apothecary’s Garden™ by Sweet Botanicals™ manufactures a

Pietro Romanengo fu Stefano Conserva di Petale di Rosa (Rose Petal Preserves) is a more decadent choice and frankly, an unexpected surprise. Many rose preserves are thin, contain more pectin than rose, and possess a crass sugar bite. Made without pectin, Italy's Conserva di Petale di Rosa is overflowing with rose petals and makes up for a lack of pectin with a sugar and water reduction. When refrigerated the preserves become thick—a texture that is perfect for spreading. For a memorable experience, try a bit of the preserves on a piece of Valbreso French Feta (purchased from a cheese block versus the packaged version, which is too salty). Valbreso French Feta is made with sheep’s milk and is a by-product of the Roquefort cheese making process. It possesses a soothing creaminess and slight tang that marry well with the sweet floralcy of the jam--a combination vaguely reminiscent of strawberry cream cheese.

Caron perfumes are rich expressions of glamour and pedigree, but Caron La Poudre face powder captures the sensual boudoir character of rose in ways that its Or et Noir and Rose perfumes cannot. La Poudre not only contains treasured Bulgarian rose oil (which is distilled by Caron and used in its perfumes) but the talc is finely milled to create a flawless finish on skin. If this were not heavenly enough, an optional ostrich feather powder puff adds a soft element of touch to the experience, ensuring perfect application. Indulging in La Poudre invokes poise, femininity and grace—characteristics not unlike the rose herself.

La Prairie is no stranger to the virtues of rose in skincare. The rose in Cellular Treatment Rose Illusion Line Filler is portrayed as a color, scent and tactile fantasy—as opposed to an active ingredient in the formulation. The pink gel was one of the first silicone-based makeup primers available at haute beauty counters. Cellular Treatment Rose Illusion Line Filler surpasses performance of competing silicone-based primers, many of which feel slippery or unctuous. The enriched, oil-free gel is flecked with a dreamy opalescence and imparts a petal-like smoothness to skin. There are no garish scent aspects to speak of as the fragrance in this skin primer possesses a fresh character that gracefully exits after application.

There are many ways to enjoy the majestic beauty of rose—those catalogued here only scratch the surface. Abundant sensory choices await those who venture beyond the comfort zone of prescribed applications and known territories. Where will your journeys take you?

Notes:

Elisir di Rose is sold at Santa Maria Novella in New York City. It is available for purchase in-person and cannot be shipped. Price: $75.00. The store is located at 285 Lafayette Street. 1-800-362-3677.

Novaclutch locates the esteemed Elisir di Rose and falls in love. Photo of the Elisir from Novaclutch.

The Apothecary’s Garden™ Rose candy is manufactured by Sweet Botanicals™ of England. Price: $7.00. The confection is available in select stores and at Artisan Sweets.

Pietro Romanego fu Stefano Conserva di Petale di Rosa is also available at Artisan Sweets. Price: $18.00.

The suggested combination of Valbreso French Feta and rose petal preserves comes from Armen Benlian, proprietor of Yaranush, a Mediterranean food store in Westchester. The store is located at 322 White Plains Avenue, in White Plains, New York. 914-682-8449.

Caron La Poudre may be ordered by phone at 1-877-88CARON. It can also be purchased at the Caron boutique, located at 715 Lexington Avenue (at the corner of 58th Street) in New York City. Price: $45.00. A regular cosmetic puff comes with the powder, but an ostrich feather powder puff is available at an additional price of $45.00. To make an appointment at the boutique, call 212-308-0270.

La Prairie Cellular Treatment Rose Illusion Line Filler is available for purchase online or at luxury department stores. Price: $100.

Bill Yosses, White House Executive Pastry Chef, created sugar rose blossoms for a State Dinner in honor of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and His Royal Highness Prince Phillip Duke of Edinburgh (May of 2007). The picture, featured in the first paragraph of this post, was taken by Lynden Steele.

Sweet Earth Perfume Compact Returns

There is a certain emptiness that takes hold when a beloved perfume is discontinued, a feeling not dissimilar to the loss of a familiar companion. A quality of sadness laced with regret and the fear of extinguished memories painfully filters through consciousness. Perfume is witness to our innermost thoughts and as such privy to more than our earthly companions. When The Vermont Country Store decided to meet customers’ requests and re-issue Sweet Earth perfume compacts, a wound in my own heart was mended--Sweet Earth Rare Flowers was the first fragrance I had ever purchased.

1973 was the year of the Paris Peace Accords, the year in which nearly all U.S. military personnel left Vietnam. Those against the war continued to wear stainless steel bracelets with names of POW and MIA soldiers, carrying emotional shrapnel that marked a conflict which future generations would sooner sacrifice to amnesia. As the prospect of peace drew near, Coty introduced Sweet Earth, a triple-pan perfume compact containing three solid fragrances, each based on a single raw material. Sweet Earth possessed an element of affordable chic as the scents could be used alone or combined according to the desire of the wearer. A total of seven stock keeping units were released through 1976, retailing at $2.75 per unit. In a nod to the art of perfumery (and the ingredient consciousness of a waning hippie era) the inside of the compact contained a legend for each of the scents, adding an element of education to the fragrance purchase.

As a child, I purchased Sweet Earth Rare Flowers at Alexander’s department store in the Bronx. I can still recall standing on tiptoes to reach the glass counter, excitedly clutching three dollars I’d won beating a boy in a baseball card flipping game (he had a crush on me, but when I crushed him at cards it was all over). A kindly saleswoman allowed me to sample different compacts, advising me to read the legend in each one when I had questions about what I was smelling. At first I thought she was trying to keep me from overzealously dipping my fingers into the solid perfume, (I was gently, but firmly instructed to run the tip of my finger across the compact and test a small amount on my forearm) but her instruction and wisdom encouraged patience and satisfied my curiosity. There were three different compacts to choose from and I instinctively gravitated towards Rare Flowers, which housed tuberose, jasmine and mimosa scents. The mimosa intrigued me most as the year of my first fragrance purchase was also the year I’d been introduced to the scent of a Persian Silk tree in my aunt’s backyard—a tree with flowers that strongly resemble the scent of true mimosa.

The Vermont Country Store is responsible for bringing many beloved fragrances back into the marketplace, including Bourjois’ Evening in Paris (1929), a scent that was a favorite during World War II (it went out of production in 1969 and has since been resurrected as Soir de Paris). Ellen Adams, Personal Care Buyer for The Vermont Country Store, understands the emotional impact that fragrances have with regard to recollection of things past, “…We know that one whiff of a certain fragrance can bring back wonderful memories. One customer commented that when she smelled a certain perfume we had brought back, it made her feel like her mother was there with her again.” Adams and her colleagues reintroduced the Floral (née Flowers) and Wood (née Woods) Sweet Earth compacts currently sold at The Vermont Country Store. When asked if Rare Flowers would be available any time soon, yes was the definitive answer. There is a little girl inside of me who just can’t wait…

Notes:

Between 1973 and 1976, Coty issued the following Sweet Earth compacts:
• Rare Flowers: tuberose, jasmine and mimosa.
• Flowers: hyacinth, honeysuckle and ylang-ylang.
• Grass: clover, gingergrass and hay.
• Woods: sandalwood, amberwood and patchouli.
• Herbs: chamomile, sage and caraway.
• Colonial Wild Flowers (1976 Bicentennial promotion): lilac, columbine and wild rose.
• Colonial Garden Flowers (1976 Bicentennial promotion): peony, verbena and lavender.

It is interesting to note the groupings of fragrance families, in addition to the educational nature of the legend which is included in the compact. Should The Vermont Country Store consider a fragrance concept for an all together new compact, a chypre trio would be quite timely.

Vintage editions of Evening in Paris can be found at Aunt Judy’s Attic, an online antique store that sells rare and discontinued perfumes. Offerings on the site are a testimony to the passion of fragrance connoisseurs and the nostalgic power of scent. The posted photo of the Rare Flowers compact is from the site.

Photo of Alexander's in the Bronx sourced from Lantern Media.

L'annine® Mango Hand and Body Cream

When gourmand notes are used in functional products, two possible outcomes exist. The first is a balanced result, where the edible material’s aroma resonates with the function of the product and adds character to the base. The second and less desirable outcome is a product that is overly jammy or vegetal, with aromas that overpower the base or its perceived function. L’annine® manufactures a hand and body cream in three fragrances. Each is lovely in its own right, but L’annine®’s Mango formula is a great example of well-executed, functional perfumery—that’s right, perfumery.

Functional perfumery is highly underappreciated and oftentimes more difficult to execute than fine fragrance creation. Lotion, cream and detergent bases have unique characteristic odors that need to be reckoned with. If you have ever smelled unscented, tallow-based soaps then you have made acquaintance with such harsh, alkaline odors. (Even the scent of “unscented” products can be slightly unpleasant, something I personally notice every time I unwrap a bar of Dove “unscented” soap.) There is also the matter of chemical reactions that cause malodors and discoloration. Buying a product you like and seeing separation and discoloration occur after purchase is more than disappointing—it’s enough to turn you off a product for good.

L’annine® Mango Hand and Body Cream is a gentle rendition of ripe mango, the fragrance harmoniously situated within a silicone, allantoin and glycerin base. The olfactive unfolding of the cream’s perfume seems to follow the trail of aromas engendered by a cutting knife against the fruit. Notes of green mango skin and orange are the first aromas to be noticed, followed by a pulpy fresh aura one finds as the knife draws closer to the pit. The scent does not overstay its welcome—it curtsies and slowly exits as the light formula is absorbed into the skin.

You may never know the name of the person who developed the scent for your favorite fragranced product, but rest assured—the craft and skill of a professionally trained perfumer is there.

Notes:

Image of mangos from Earthdelight.net.

Orange Blossom Candy Dots

 

In August 2007, gourmet candy purveyor Artisan Sweets became the only American distributor of Orange Blossom Candy Dots. The candy, known as pastiglie fior arancio in Italian, is manufactured by Pietro Romanengo fu Stefano, an historical confectionery with roots in the second half of the18th century. There is an interesting effect that transpires if the candy is eaten after applying an orange blossom fragrance. A tangible synchrony of the senses occurs that is best compared to sympathetic vibration between two tuning forks—a flavor and fragrance connection that is nearly impossible to forget.

Pietro Romanengo fu Stefano’s discs of colorless molded sugar are perfumed with natural orange flower and develop a granular feel in the mouth as the confection dissolves—a sophisticated way to experience traces of pure sugar crystals on the tongue. For the uninitiated, pastiglie fior arancio are remotely akin to Necco® Candy Buttons, small removable dots of colored sugar that are assembled in rows and fastened onto strips of paper. The Necco® confection, designed for children, is pastel-colored, but the texture is far from pleasing—it resembles hardened dry icing used to decorate cakes. Orange Blossom Candy Dots are quite small, but their size belies the beauty of an impactful flavor.

Not all orange blossom fragrances permit sensory resonance with Orange Blossom Candy Dots. Fresh and delicate compositions are necessary as orange blossom possess a slight Concord grape odor due to the presence of naturally occurring methyl anthranilate. Slatkin Orange Blossom and Citron eau de parfum and Jo Malone Orange Blossom cologne match perfectly with Orange Blossom Candy Dots. A review of each of these fragrances is provided as a guide to exploring flavor and fragrance connections. Feel free to experiment with other matching fragrances in haute niche ranges.

Fragrance Reviews/Recommendations:

Slatkin Orange Blossom and Citron is as welcome as a summer breeze that sends curtains fluttering with the promise of clement weather. At first sniff it is decidedly crisp and refreshing. The scent seamlessly transitions into a bouquet of gentle white florals, slowly fading in an upward stream of musk. There is a pronounced hedonic nose of jasmine in the bouquet which is simply expressed, lacking the indolic quality of a full jasmine. A faint touch of honeysuckle also flirts with the orange blossom, adding a quality of freshness à la Marc Jacobs Blush. Though Slatkin Orange Blossom and Citron doesn’t have the complexity of earlier eau de parfums in the branded line, it most certainly has its place in the Slatkin pantheon. In addition, the ancillary products are aesthetically pleasing and well formulated. The shampoo, in particular, possesses a lasting fondness for scenting the hair.

Jo Malone Orange Blossom cologne bows gracefully to the white radiance of orange flower. The scent begins on a honeyed citrus peel note dappled with clementine leaf before revealing the tender presence of its floral heart. True to its cologne formulation, the quality of constancy on skin is pleasant and not overbearing. Fragrance layering opportunities exist with other scents in the Jo Malone line, which make it attractive to the fine fragrance connoisseur. Orange Blossom body cream, body lotion, bath oil, and shower gel formulations are also available should the desire for indulgence arise.

Additional Notes:

If you are interested in making a delectable orange blossom pastry, consult my Persian Orange Blossom Cookies recipe on Bois de Jasmin. It is a beautiful and fragrant cookie that is easy to make (and difficult to resist after it has come out of the oven).

The complete Slatkin Orange Blossom and Citron line is available in-store at Bergdorf Goodman. Due to high demand, availability of the eau de parfum may be limited.

Photo of the orange blossom comes from NetState.com.